tripped breaker problem

When I turn on light in master closet the light makes a pop sound and the breaker is tripped.. When I reset the breaker it lasts for several days and then the same thing happens..My house is 11 years old and the breakers are original with the house..Where should I start to determine the problem.. Should I replace the light fixture first . Replace the breaker ? The circuit is not overloaded so I know that's not the problem..


With power off look in the light and switch boxes first. What is the condition of the leads on the light? What do the wires look like? Any discoloring or bare copper spots? Could one of the wires in the switch box be touching ground occasionally? Same question at light.

knob and tube, wiring for home automation

hey fellas trying to figure out, how to wire my home automation, I have knob and tube wiring, trying to figure out my knob and tube setup, when I test the wires at the switch, when its on there is no voltage detected, but when I switch is off I can read voltage in one wire. I guess that would be the line , and the other is the neutral. So I guess they tied in the load in the wall somewhere?


How are you measuring voltage? From what wire to what wire using what type of meter?

Don't assume anything with K&T; you'll find that the neutral wire is switched as often as the hot in lighting circuits. Identifying which wire is which usually requires dragging an extension cord from a known good ground to your testing location and measuring voltage from the unknown wire(s) to the known good cord ground.

circuit problem

i have a circuit which some stuff is working such as bathroom lights and outlets but all lights and outlets in bedrooms are not working which are on the same breaker. it was all working then went out but the breaker was not tripped. any suggestions?


If you have any gfcis in your bathroom check them. This could be the problem ,because they might be wired in incorrectly therefore when they trip they not only cut power to themselves they also cut power to what ever else is down stream from them.

Also it is against code to have your bathroom and bed room on the same circuit.

rotary dimmer switch

I have a custom wall plate that will not allow a standard rotary dimmer switch to activate. The stem bottoms out against the plate before the switch activates. Has anyone ever run into a dimmer with a longer stem, or a solid way to extended it? Client MUST have rotary dimmers.


All I can think of would be to drill a small hole through the knob into the stem and thread in a small finish screw. Is the requirement for rotary dimmers cosmetic or handicap related?

Electrical box for light switch not big enough...

I've added some recessed lights to some rooms, and because of this, now there are some extra wires that need to be connected to the wall switch.

The problem is, I can't seem to find a switch box that is big enough so that all the wires fit nicely inside. It has been very frustrating trying to cram all the wires inside, and hook it up to the switch. And it didn't seem too safe with all the wires all jammed in there anyway.

The only solution I've come up with so far is connecting all the wires outside the box with wire twists, and then route a pigtail into the box.

Everything works. But I'm just wondering if this is safe or not. Any opinions on this would be greatly appreciated.


Without seeing your situation we cannot tell what size you have tried or what your framing allows. Is this new work or remodeling? How many wires? What AWG? How many switches?

WIth that in mind, the largest 1-gang you will find is a 4-11/16 square box. With this box you can add a 1-gang mud ring in various depths from flat to probably 2". You will not find the less common mud rings at the big box but a large electrical supply house will have them.

As you have probably realized, all cables and wires must terminate inside a box. You cannot have wire nuts outside the box.

Corrosion on wiring of porcelain receptacle

After 13 years a fixture with transformer, above the kitchen sink, for a 12 volt MR-16 bulb with the two-narrow-pins-type plug, stopped working in the summer of 2006. For months I tried a number of fixes--nothing worked. In the spring of 2007 I discovered the existence of JDR bulbs--MR-16s with an E-26 base and (presumably) line voltage. I bought a prewired porcelain receptacle for an e-26 base and wired it to the cable in the ceiling.

The GE, 35 watt, JDR bulbs that are supposed to last two years have all lasted about 3-5 months. As I went to change the bulb today I noticed bad corrosion at the point where the wires are soldered (or however fastened) to the top of the receptacle. (Usually, when I put a very high-wattage bulb--not the case here--in a receptacle, it's the interior part of that receptacle that eventually burns away--not the wiring on the exterior part).

Is there something about the original cable that came with that fixture, that protrudes from the hole in the ceiling, that's incompatible with the wiring on an ordinary prewired porcelain receptacle?


What you describe is definitely not correct. Something went awry during the manufacture process, IMHO. But I would consider replacing the fixture, too many things not going right there. I have done a number of low voltage fixtures, and i do occasionaly get one that is a trouble maker, I replace it after the second call back. But 13 yrs is not would I would consider a call back.

Generator Neutral Bonding Issue

Ok I have installed a Briggs & Stratton 7kw (model 040248) stand-by generator and a 16-circuit SIEMENS 2-pole manual transfer switch. I installed everything and once I fired up the generator and plugged into the 240 outlet the 30A GFCI breaker on the generator tripped and subsequently each other time I tried. After playing with it I noticed that if I disconnected the ground from the 4-wire cord going into the disconnect box on the outside, the generator would run and provide power to the house.

I then came in and did some research last night and found that the generator and the transfer switch are by code not compatible as the generator's Neutral is BONDED to the chassis, and technically you would need a transfer switch to "switch the neutrals". Well after a large investment in money and time and no way to take anything back, I am in search of a solution.

One thing I came across was that I can "REMOVE THE BOND" on the generator and everything should work because it would bond to the main panel in the house.

My ultimate question is if this the direction I should take? Are there any other alternatives? If this is the direction I need to go how do I effectively un-bond the neutral on the generator. I have included a link to the "WIRING DIAGRAM" below for assistance. I also have opened up the control panel on the generator and found a screw through the chassis in the back with 4 wires under it (2 white and 2 green), do I remove the whites from the bolt and tie them together and I am done or what are my options.

Also Manual of course says DO NOT REMOVE BOND as GFCI OUTLET WILL NOT WORK AND CAN CAUSE INJURY, but if everything flows down through to the main panel will the GFCI still not work?


I should think the solution to this might be a dual use set-up.

A way to use the generator connected to the transfer switch - either a connection before the GFCI on the generator or not bonding of the neutral on the generator.

Then also a way to safely use the generator as a stand alone unit - The neutral bonded and use the GFCI.

This whole thing is complicated and my mind is going in circles!

What I'm thinking of is the power company connection at the power company transformer. How is this wired? Well they ground the neutral at the pole. But there is no GFCI between the electric company transformer and your house!

So I should think a similar setup with the generator would be ok as well, a grounded (bonded) neutral at the power source and no GFCI.

But then looking backwards, you would then have your neutral bonded to ground at your main electric panel which would then sort of be a subpanel, but then this panel would not be supplying power, the transfer switch would!

So with the generator supplying power, would the bonding of ground to neutral at your main panel in any way be a safety issue?

I would say no since the main electric panel would not be carrying any power. However this ground would "translate" to your transfer switch (the neutral bonded to the ground), however the transfer switch would be like a "main panel" as it relates to the generator.

But now we have a different situation from the electric company service and that is instead of 3 wires to the transformer (2 hots and a neutral), you also have a ground wire run to the generator.

So is it necessary to run the ground wire to the generator?

It is not necessary to run a 4th ground wire to the electric company transformer!

(I have no idea what to do in this situation, so don't do anything based on what I have said here. I am just "throwing this out for discussion"!)

Washing Machine – Dedicated Circuit or not?

Right now my washing machine (clothes) is not on a dedicated circuit but is on the same circuit as several outlets and some lights (It’s a 20 AMP circuit). I am going to rewire all of this because it is old work with no grounding conductor and not safe (especially in the basement).

What I have read recommends using a dedicated circuit for the washing machine? Is it just me or does this seem like overkill? I looked in the manual for the washer but it does not list the AMP’s or Watts that it consumes. When the motor starts (a peak use) how many amps do these appliances usually pull? Should I install the separate dedicated circuit just for future considerations?


It's really up to you. The laundry are should have separate breaker. Say gas dryer, washer. Some of the newer front load machines have a higher draw and may require a dedicated circuit. Think about ironing too in the general area.

The washers of yesteryear had about 1/3 HP motor in it. The spin cycle is the highest draw. There are 745W in a HP, but it would draw a little more than 746/3. Say 1.5x times. A gas dryer has about the same motor.

These high capacity things are quite different.

I'd suggest that you run dedicated lines to the fuse box, but pigtail the washer and dryer outlets together so you don't have to buy a breaker. DON't put two wires on a breaker terminal.

Upgrade is simple for you and the new owner.

Furnace and Water Heater on same circuit

I had a tank-less water heater installed recently and there was no outlet in range of the unit’s power cord. So I am temporary using an extension cord. The nearest appliance with power is the furnace which is on its own dedicated circuit. I was thinking about running another outlet on the same circuit for the water heater. I checked and the Max AMPS the finance will pull is 8.9 and the water heater 2.0. Because I am on a 15 AMP circuit I am thinking this should not be an issue?

Am I right in thinking that this would be okay? The water heater can always be unplugged if it needs servicing and the furnace has its own single pole switch. What would be the downside if any to wiring this way?


The circuit is fine.

Not what I would do, but OK. No code issue, just a preference thing.

Downside is if the water heater fails it may trip out CB, thus losing the furnace heat.

hot wire

the hot wire in a typical 120 volt circuit is


White --> Nuetral
Black --> Hot
Green/Bare Copper --> Ground

That is the case most of the time. Could be different though. Your best bet is to buy one of the pen testers and check it that way.

Blown Circuit + More

I recently started a circular saw from an outlet that also had a small "Makita" type battery charger plugged into it. Almost immediately the saw stopped and a flame shot through what appeared to be the location of the Makita charger. The saw was tried elsewhere and it works fine, the Makita charger is gone, but the battery in the charger is still good???? This service was in an outbuilding with a main breaker panel with the neutral and grounds wired together. From my earlier questions I have found that this was not correct, that they should have been seperated (as this service comes off of another breaker box which comes off of a breaker at the pole). Now that I have been told that the neutral and grounds should only be connected at the pole (where the first service disconnect is), I have gone back into the service panel in question (where the circuit blew) and seperated the neutrals and grounds and connected the grounds to a ground rod. I reconnected a test outlet and it appeared to have power when I plugged in a circuit tester (2 amber lights), but I tried a small electric drill to test and I got nothing?? An voltage tester shows 240 when both hots are touched, 120 when 1 hot and neutral touched (same on both hots). Also get 120 when black side of outlet tested with white side of outlet. I'm just bewildered at this point why I'm not getting any power to the drill??? Do I need to go back further in the system and ground the second box (the one that this service comes off of and which the service from the pole goes into).

If anyone has any ideas, I'm at a loss at this point. I can supply further description if I've left out any information you might deem pertinent.

By the way, the electrician ?? that made this initial instillation will never do another job for me.


If you still have the charger, see if you can find the max current needed by the charger as well as the max current needed by the saw.

Sounds like you might have a circuit that may be fed from 2 supplies.

Also, workshop receptacle should be protected by either a GFCI panel breaker or GFCI protected receptacles.

Long distance between service meter and panel

I have a project in Costa Rica, just getting ready for the arrival of electricity. My house is 450' from the public road where the transformer is. Because we have a gate at the entrance to the property, the service meter needs to be at the location it is.

Our electrical engineer down there has specified a conduit run with 3/0 THHN (two cables) and 2/0 THHN for the ground. Our panel is 200amps at the house, tied in to a 30KW generator.

I'm looking for a second opinion on the service plans. Any other options? It has to be run underground.


#3/0 wire, not sure if your using copper or aluminum, my guess is copper, is nominal size for 200 amp feeder, and does not appear to be sized for voltage drop considerations.

But I am only a lowly electrician, no engineer.

450 feet is a very long distance to deliver 120/240 volts, and attempt to keep voltage drop to a recommended maximum of 5%.

Not only do you need to consider this feeder, but also need to consider the longest branch circuit and any other feeders that may be in the home. My guess is that this would not be a small home.

Vd can be 3% max for a feeder and 2 % for a branch circuit, or vice versa. which ever works best. Vd does not need to be either of these, can be whatever you like, or can live with.

One piece of the puzzle is what is the maximum load in amps, KW or KVA. one of these values is needed to perform voltage drop calculations, along with knowing the conductor material. And really need to know what the nominal utility voltage is, and the reliability of that voltage remaining somewhat constant. If brownouts are frequent, then all bets are off.

Can the engineer show his calculations?


I personally would attempt to deliver high voltage that distance, even if I need to have a small transformer at the gate, if that area needed 120/240 volt power for gate power, lighting, etc.

In lieu of that, if 120/240 volt 200 amp absolutely needed to go the 450 foot, the conductors could be up in the range of #250 MCM copper, depending on various values.

And of course, this is not my money. But, if someone decides to have a feeder than long, and wants a reliable system, not my worry.

Since you have hired an engineer, he is, or should be, entirely responsible for the performance of the installation.

Be sure to have the proper clauses in the contract that if his design does not perform properly, that he pays to do any necessary upgrades, and any costs incurred due to subsequent damage to appliances, etc.

Watch out for any "hold harmless" clauses in his contract to you. Something like that could leave you in the dark, no pun intended, and having to pay for any improvements yourself.

May be wise to have your attorney review the contract between you and the engineer.

I used a few on line calculators, and assumed that the neutral current would be 100 amps, to arrive at the 250 MCM Cu.

The lower this value is, the smaller the wire can be. The last one listed uses 3% Vd automatically.

Ceiling fans are making some noise, slight vibration and one has been slow even when

I have seven ceiling fans that were installed shortly after we had this home built almost four years ago. All are from Lowes and are the Harbor Breeze brand.

The one in the great room has a five foot drop from a 20 foot ceiling. When on the high speed has some swaying and makes a slight noise.

The one in my office has a one foot drop from a ten foot ceiling; slight sway on mid and high speed and is sometimes making a "whirling" noise that is coming from the motor I believe. The noise comes and goes......

The last fan that I am having a problem with is in the sun room. Even on high speed it only goes like it is on low speed. It has been this way since the first day it was installed.

I went to the web site that was suggested for help and I quickly reminded myself that that I am NOT mechanically inclined.....so any help or suggestions that you may have will be appreciated. Even if it is to hire an expert.....


I had a Harbor Breeze fan that started to get noisy. My son (Mrs. Fix-it's son) spent days and days trying to make it quieter with no luck. I had to replace the fan and now it's quiet.

Unfortunately with the Harbor Breeze fans (I have owned many) the only true "fix" for them is replacement. Sorry.

The one in the sun room should have been changed out and the nonworking one sent back to the store. Now it's a tad too late to return it and get a new one. If you want a speed higher than low, replacement is the only way to go.

power to neutral rings like power there but no power on neutral

I hve recently finnished my basement im havein a problem with my highhats I WAS RINGING OUT IN MYPANNEL AND FOUND THAT THE BUZZER IN MY FLUKE PICKS UP VOLTAGE ON NEUTRAL TO GROUND ON DIFFERNT CIRCITS BUT THERE IS NO VOLTAGE THERE BUT THE BUZZER BUZZES LIKE THERE IS AND IT CHANGES WHEN DIFFRENT LIGHTS ON DIFFRENT LINES ARE ON NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE SOMETIMES IT IS FINE NOTHING TRIPS EVRYTHING WORKS FINE...I AM USEING FORRESINT BULBS FOR THE FIRST TIME COULD IT BE RESIDUAL FROM THEM


Please make absolutely certain that your meter is set to read AC voltage and not OHMS.

All of the Fluke meters I have ever used "Beeped" to warn the user that there is a zero Ohms (short) condition present. Then the "0" is posted to the LCD.

How do I determine breaker amps on a 240v double breaker?

I have a new elec. cooktop that needs 240V, 40 amps.

Each pole of the double pole breaker for my cooktop circuit
says 30amps. So can this 240v circuit support 60 amps, or just
30?


The markings on a double pole breaker don't add. Ideally we'd need the aproximate length of the wire and the type of wire (Copper or aluminum) to make a determination if you can just change the breaker.

Some cooktops are requiring a 4-wire circuit.

Can my Circuit breakers add up to more than my main breaker?

I have a 100 amp main and all of the circuit breakers in my main service panel and my sub-panel add up to about 180 amps. Is this all right or do i need to upgrade to a 200 amp main? Any help would be appreciated thanks!


Yes,

Can my Circuit breakers add up to more than my main breaker?

Adding the branch breaker ratings is totally irrelevant.

The Main is sized according to the calculated load, and each breaker is sized by other means, and often do end up much more than the main.


Why do you ask?

Is there a problem your having, or just curious?

The detailed answer is much more than I have given, but too detailed to give now without knowing why you ask.

If your inquisitive and like to read, review Article 220 of the NFPA 70: National Electrical Code®.