When I turn on light in master closet the light makes a pop sound and the breaker is tripped.. When I reset the breaker it lasts for several days and then the same thing happens..My house is 11 years old and the breakers are original with the house..Where should I start to determine the problem.. Should I replace the light fixture first . Replace the breaker ? The circuit is not overloaded so I know that's not the problem..
With power off look in the light and switch boxes first. What is the condition of the leads on the light? What do the wires look like? Any discoloring or bare copper spots? Could one of the wires in the switch box be touching ground occasionally? Same question at light.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Sunday, January 25, 2009
knob and tube, wiring for home automation
hey fellas trying to figure out, how to wire my home automation, I have knob and tube wiring, trying to figure out my knob and tube setup, when I test the wires at the switch, when its on there is no voltage detected, but when I switch is off I can read voltage in one wire. I guess that would be the line , and the other is the neutral. So I guess they tied in the load in the wall somewhere?
How are you measuring voltage? From what wire to what wire using what type of meter?
Don't assume anything with K&T; you'll find that the neutral wire is switched as often as the hot in lighting circuits. Identifying which wire is which usually requires dragging an extension cord from a known good ground to your testing location and measuring voltage from the unknown wire(s) to the known good cord ground.
How are you measuring voltage? From what wire to what wire using what type of meter?
Don't assume anything with K&T; you'll find that the neutral wire is switched as often as the hot in lighting circuits. Identifying which wire is which usually requires dragging an extension cord from a known good ground to your testing location and measuring voltage from the unknown wire(s) to the known good cord ground.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
circuit problem
i have a circuit which some stuff is working such as bathroom lights and outlets but all lights and outlets in bedrooms are not working which are on the same breaker. it was all working then went out but the breaker was not tripped. any suggestions?
If you have any gfcis in your bathroom check them. This could be the problem ,because they might be wired in incorrectly therefore when they trip they not only cut power to themselves they also cut power to what ever else is down stream from them.
Also it is against code to have your bathroom and bed room on the same circuit.
If you have any gfcis in your bathroom check them. This could be the problem ,because they might be wired in incorrectly therefore when they trip they not only cut power to themselves they also cut power to what ever else is down stream from them.
Also it is against code to have your bathroom and bed room on the same circuit.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
rotary dimmer switch
I have a custom wall plate that will not allow a standard rotary dimmer switch to activate. The stem bottoms out against the plate before the switch activates. Has anyone ever run into a dimmer with a longer stem, or a solid way to extended it? Client MUST have rotary dimmers.
All I can think of would be to drill a small hole through the knob into the stem and thread in a small finish screw. Is the requirement for rotary dimmers cosmetic or handicap related?
All I can think of would be to drill a small hole through the knob into the stem and thread in a small finish screw. Is the requirement for rotary dimmers cosmetic or handicap related?
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Electrical box for light switch not big enough...
I've added some recessed lights to some rooms, and because of this, now there are some extra wires that need to be connected to the wall switch.
The problem is, I can't seem to find a switch box that is big enough so that all the wires fit nicely inside. It has been very frustrating trying to cram all the wires inside, and hook it up to the switch. And it didn't seem too safe with all the wires all jammed in there anyway.
The only solution I've come up with so far is connecting all the wires outside the box with wire twists, and then route a pigtail into the box.
Everything works. But I'm just wondering if this is safe or not. Any opinions on this would be greatly appreciated.
Without seeing your situation we cannot tell what size you have tried or what your framing allows. Is this new work or remodeling? How many wires? What AWG? How many switches?
WIth that in mind, the largest 1-gang you will find is a 4-11/16 square box. With this box you can add a 1-gang mud ring in various depths from flat to probably 2". You will not find the less common mud rings at the big box but a large electrical supply house will have them.
As you have probably realized, all cables and wires must terminate inside a box. You cannot have wire nuts outside the box.
The problem is, I can't seem to find a switch box that is big enough so that all the wires fit nicely inside. It has been very frustrating trying to cram all the wires inside, and hook it up to the switch. And it didn't seem too safe with all the wires all jammed in there anyway.
The only solution I've come up with so far is connecting all the wires outside the box with wire twists, and then route a pigtail into the box.
Everything works. But I'm just wondering if this is safe or not. Any opinions on this would be greatly appreciated.
Without seeing your situation we cannot tell what size you have tried or what your framing allows. Is this new work or remodeling? How many wires? What AWG? How many switches?
WIth that in mind, the largest 1-gang you will find is a 4-11/16 square box. With this box you can add a 1-gang mud ring in various depths from flat to probably 2". You will not find the less common mud rings at the big box but a large electrical supply house will have them.
As you have probably realized, all cables and wires must terminate inside a box. You cannot have wire nuts outside the box.
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
Corrosion on wiring of porcelain receptacle
After 13 years a fixture with transformer, above the kitchen sink, for a 12 volt MR-16 bulb with the two-narrow-pins-type plug, stopped working in the summer of 2006. For months I tried a number of fixes--nothing worked. In the spring of 2007 I discovered the existence of JDR bulbs--MR-16s with an E-26 base and (presumably) line voltage. I bought a prewired porcelain receptacle for an e-26 base and wired it to the cable in the ceiling.
The GE, 35 watt, JDR bulbs that are supposed to last two years have all lasted about 3-5 months. As I went to change the bulb today I noticed bad corrosion at the point where the wires are soldered (or however fastened) to the top of the receptacle. (Usually, when I put a very high-wattage bulb--not the case here--in a receptacle, it's the interior part of that receptacle that eventually burns away--not the wiring on the exterior part).
Is there something about the original cable that came with that fixture, that protrudes from the hole in the ceiling, that's incompatible with the wiring on an ordinary prewired porcelain receptacle?
What you describe is definitely not correct. Something went awry during the manufacture process, IMHO. But I would consider replacing the fixture, too many things not going right there. I have done a number of low voltage fixtures, and i do occasionaly get one that is a trouble maker, I replace it after the second call back. But 13 yrs is not would I would consider a call back.
The GE, 35 watt, JDR bulbs that are supposed to last two years have all lasted about 3-5 months. As I went to change the bulb today I noticed bad corrosion at the point where the wires are soldered (or however fastened) to the top of the receptacle. (Usually, when I put a very high-wattage bulb--not the case here--in a receptacle, it's the interior part of that receptacle that eventually burns away--not the wiring on the exterior part).
Is there something about the original cable that came with that fixture, that protrudes from the hole in the ceiling, that's incompatible with the wiring on an ordinary prewired porcelain receptacle?
What you describe is definitely not correct. Something went awry during the manufacture process, IMHO. But I would consider replacing the fixture, too many things not going right there. I have done a number of low voltage fixtures, and i do occasionaly get one that is a trouble maker, I replace it after the second call back. But 13 yrs is not would I would consider a call back.
Generator Neutral Bonding Issue
Ok I have installed a Briggs & Stratton 7kw (model 040248) stand-by generator and a 16-circuit SIEMENS 2-pole manual transfer switch. I installed everything and once I fired up the generator and plugged into the 240 outlet the 30A GFCI breaker on the generator tripped and subsequently each other time I tried. After playing with it I noticed that if I disconnected the ground from the 4-wire cord going into the disconnect box on the outside, the generator would run and provide power to the house.
I then came in and did some research last night and found that the generator and the transfer switch are by code not compatible as the generator's Neutral is BONDED to the chassis, and technically you would need a transfer switch to "switch the neutrals". Well after a large investment in money and time and no way to take anything back, I am in search of a solution.
One thing I came across was that I can "REMOVE THE BOND" on the generator and everything should work because it would bond to the main panel in the house.
My ultimate question is if this the direction I should take? Are there any other alternatives? If this is the direction I need to go how do I effectively un-bond the neutral on the generator. I have included a link to the "WIRING DIAGRAM" below for assistance. I also have opened up the control panel on the generator and found a screw through the chassis in the back with 4 wires under it (2 white and 2 green), do I remove the whites from the bolt and tie them together and I am done or what are my options.
Also Manual of course says DO NOT REMOVE BOND as GFCI OUTLET WILL NOT WORK AND CAN CAUSE INJURY, but if everything flows down through to the main panel will the GFCI still not work?
I should think the solution to this might be a dual use set-up.
A way to use the generator connected to the transfer switch - either a connection before the GFCI on the generator or not bonding of the neutral on the generator.
Then also a way to safely use the generator as a stand alone unit - The neutral bonded and use the GFCI.
This whole thing is complicated and my mind is going in circles!
What I'm thinking of is the power company connection at the power company transformer. How is this wired? Well they ground the neutral at the pole. But there is no GFCI between the electric company transformer and your house!
So I should think a similar setup with the generator would be ok as well, a grounded (bonded) neutral at the power source and no GFCI.
But then looking backwards, you would then have your neutral bonded to ground at your main electric panel which would then sort of be a subpanel, but then this panel would not be supplying power, the transfer switch would!
So with the generator supplying power, would the bonding of ground to neutral at your main panel in any way be a safety issue?
I would say no since the main electric panel would not be carrying any power. However this ground would "translate" to your transfer switch (the neutral bonded to the ground), however the transfer switch would be like a "main panel" as it relates to the generator.
But now we have a different situation from the electric company service and that is instead of 3 wires to the transformer (2 hots and a neutral), you also have a ground wire run to the generator.
So is it necessary to run the ground wire to the generator?
It is not necessary to run a 4th ground wire to the electric company transformer!
(I have no idea what to do in this situation, so don't do anything based on what I have said here. I am just "throwing this out for discussion"!)
I then came in and did some research last night and found that the generator and the transfer switch are by code not compatible as the generator's Neutral is BONDED to the chassis, and technically you would need a transfer switch to "switch the neutrals". Well after a large investment in money and time and no way to take anything back, I am in search of a solution.
One thing I came across was that I can "REMOVE THE BOND" on the generator and everything should work because it would bond to the main panel in the house.
My ultimate question is if this the direction I should take? Are there any other alternatives? If this is the direction I need to go how do I effectively un-bond the neutral on the generator. I have included a link to the "WIRING DIAGRAM" below for assistance. I also have opened up the control panel on the generator and found a screw through the chassis in the back with 4 wires under it (2 white and 2 green), do I remove the whites from the bolt and tie them together and I am done or what are my options.
Also Manual of course says DO NOT REMOVE BOND as GFCI OUTLET WILL NOT WORK AND CAN CAUSE INJURY, but if everything flows down through to the main panel will the GFCI still not work?
I should think the solution to this might be a dual use set-up.
A way to use the generator connected to the transfer switch - either a connection before the GFCI on the generator or not bonding of the neutral on the generator.
Then also a way to safely use the generator as a stand alone unit - The neutral bonded and use the GFCI.
This whole thing is complicated and my mind is going in circles!
What I'm thinking of is the power company connection at the power company transformer. How is this wired? Well they ground the neutral at the pole. But there is no GFCI between the electric company transformer and your house!
So I should think a similar setup with the generator would be ok as well, a grounded (bonded) neutral at the power source and no GFCI.
But then looking backwards, you would then have your neutral bonded to ground at your main electric panel which would then sort of be a subpanel, but then this panel would not be supplying power, the transfer switch would!
So with the generator supplying power, would the bonding of ground to neutral at your main panel in any way be a safety issue?
I would say no since the main electric panel would not be carrying any power. However this ground would "translate" to your transfer switch (the neutral bonded to the ground), however the transfer switch would be like a "main panel" as it relates to the generator.
But now we have a different situation from the electric company service and that is instead of 3 wires to the transformer (2 hots and a neutral), you also have a ground wire run to the generator.
So is it necessary to run the ground wire to the generator?
It is not necessary to run a 4th ground wire to the electric company transformer!
(I have no idea what to do in this situation, so don't do anything based on what I have said here. I am just "throwing this out for discussion"!)
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